A BEAUTY TO REMEMBER
As one of the most successful photographers in South Korea, Hong’s work has inspired a whole new generation. Talking to The WOW, Hong discusses how his career has shaped his perception of beauty.
INTERVIEWER ELANIE YJ LEE
PHOTOGRAPHER HONG JANG HYUN
ART DIRECTOR ANNE DANAO
For Hong Jang Hyun, beauty is a faint idea. Rather than the looks of a physical object, it is a remnant of a feeling, a momentary image from the past. “For me, beauty is something that’s more stored in my memory,” he says. The South Korean photographer collects his own memories of beauty, and projects them back into the world through his work, as he’s been doing for nearly two decades. “As a photographer, my job is to record the current times while offering something new,” he explains. “I try to be what you would call a culture keeper. I have the responsibility to filter through culture and choose to show or not show certain things.”
Throughout his 17-year career, Hong Jang Hyun has recorded the most glamorous, iconic and important moments in Korea’s fashion and entertainment industries. As one of the most celebrated photographers in the country, he’s also nurtured a dozen of its most successful photographers, whose apprenticeship under him is considered an extremely competitive – but highly rewarding – rite of passage. Just last year, Hong’s lens has snapped covers for American Esquire and WSJ Magazine, as well as editorials for brands like Nike, Porsche and Calvin Klein. Recent and past muses include K-pop heavyweights BTS and Blackpink, in addition to Tilda Swinton, Rita Ora and Lara Stone. Name any notable local actor, musician or model, and chances are, he’s shot them. Hong is at the center of the ever-expanding K-wave taking over the world, actively contributing to its growth and influence.
Despite his highly-regarded status, Hong won’t admit that he’s successful. “I’m probably the longest-running fashion photographer in Korea right now,” he says. “But I wouldn’t say that I’ve succeeded at all.” He’s facing me on my computer screen through Zoom, wearing a casual zip-up hoodie and thick black spectacles that have become his signature look. “I still have a long way to go,” he tells me in his usual, tranquil voice.
bodysuit CHA MYUNG
For The WOW’s new cover story, Hong looked to his youth to unearth nostalgic beauties of his past. “When I was a child, we had jagae-jangs in every room,” he reminisces, referring to traditional Korean furniture gilded with mother-of-pearl decorations. “That’s something that I remember as beautiful, and I wanted to reinterpret it for the new generation.” As a man in his mid-forties, Hong has lived through vastly changing times, and is acutely aware of generational shifts, both current and coming. “Seeing my two daughters, who are twelve and fourteen, I know that they live in a completely different world than me. They inspire me to keep an eye on how other generations will view the world, and therefore how I should view the world,” he explains. “For this cover story, we wanted to capture the beauty of Korea that my generation is more familiar with, in a way that would still resonate with modern times.”
Hong’s photography is not only a means to communicate the past and record the present, but also to discover new possibilities for the future. “There’s a sense of achievement every time I finish a shoot, but I always have to move right onto the next. I constantly wrestle with what I want to do because I want to try new things and improve myself. I don’t think I could ever be satisfied doing this job, until I die,” he says matter-of-factly. “I always tell my assistants and colleagues that if you are ever satisfied or comfortable as a photographer it means you are complacent. Sooner or later, complacency will turn to conceit, and then shame. At that point, it would be better to just quit.”
Hong’s start in photography was almost a chance encounter. “I was not a very good student, and was only into partying and sports,” he shyly admits. “I toyed with the idea of going to college for tennis, but my dad was against sports and suggested I study photography instead. I think a few of my nephews went to college for photography to follow in my footsteps, but there aren’t any other creatives in my family.”
“My dream is to never stop contemplating on how to pursue the photography that I love.”
I first met Hong Jang Hyun in the summer of 2016. He was the main photographer for the K-pop group Big Bang’s 10th anniversary promotions and Asia tour. As a rookie styling assistant, my duties were removed from ever directly interacting with him, but his unchanging style and calm demeanour still made an impression. Hong, who almost always seemed to be dressed in Hawaiian shirts and wide cargo trousers, was effortless and easygoing, a combination of traits I found hard to come by in the industry. He had an ability to lead every situation with poise, whether it was on set with a tight deadline or backstage with hundreds of staff. Hong also treated everyone with respect, another rare trait among people I have met in the industry.
“I plan very meticulously ahead of every shoot. Pre-production may consist of many stressful and sleepless nights. I like to be perfectly prepared and know exactly which story to tell before going in,” Hong explains. “But that’s why I can relax a bit when I’m actually on set, and sometimes let spontaneity take over.”
Hong’s cover story with Korean top model Yoon Young Bae is one such product of his meticulous planning. “I love working with Hong because he knows exactly what he wants,” Bae echoes. “He also knows how to make the model comfortable, so his shoots are always fun.”
Hong’s path in photography hasn't been a smooth, upward trajectory. “Up until about seven years ago, I was doing more than 400 shoots a year. I would work without any holiday or rest for consecutive years straight,” he tells me.
The full version of this cover story and interview was published in our print issue The WOW N° 4
TALENT YOON YOUNG BAE @ YG KPLUS
STYLIST KIM SUN YOUNG @ ES CONSULTANCY
HAIR SIN GABE
MAKEUP WON JO YEON
NAIL PARK EUN KYUNG @ UNISTELLA
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER LEE KYUNG KIM @ BL CREATIVE HOUSE
COORDINATORS PARK HEE YOUNG & SEO KANG ON
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT CHIN SO YEON & KANG HYUNG ROK
RETOUCHE CHOI JUN HO